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Basement Waterproofing

Basement Waterproofing

We were called out to provide a solution for a water problem in a basement.

The basement was not properly tanked during the construction phase.

Non tanking can result in major waterproofing problems in the future -
Our client experienced between 10mm-30mm of water ponding on the entire floor of the basement.
A permanent water pump was installed to pump out the water

The builders had penetrated an unforeseen but very real underground 'river' during construction.
Water penetrated from both the floor and the construction joints between the walls of the basement.

basement water level

Diagram of basement showing level of water

construction joint in a basement

Diagram showing construction joint in a basement

How to properly tank a basement retaining wall

tanking of basement walls

Step One

Excavate around the basement down to foundation level
This is best done during construction phase when no excavation is needed

Step two

Apply generous amounts of Bitumen Primer by means of block brush or roller to all the areas that will receive the torch on membrane


Step three

Heat fuse the torch on membrane to the primed areas.
Torching is quite tricky and should only really be done by persons who have experience in this.

Diagram?

Step four

Connect the pieces of flow pipe and wrap in bidum cloth
Flow pipe is a pipe with holes in it.
The pipe allows water to pass into it and flow away to a storm water outlet.
Bidum cloth is a geo textile that act likes a filter to stop sand and other objects entering the pipe

Tip: It is important to get the levels of the flow pipe falling correctly. It would be best to consult a drainage expert on this. Some council regulations demand that plans be approved for drainage systems

Step five
Surround the flow pipe with 19mm builder stone
The stone acts as the first filter

Step six
Back fill with clean sand

How to waterproof the inside of a basement using a cement based waterproofing product / Prostruct 526

Where one cannot tank the outside (called the 'positive side') of the walls and the problem can only be addressed from the inside (called the 'negative side') of the basement. This is a compromise solution and may never really solve the problem of poor design or construction…it is a last resort in what may be a desperate situation and it cannot be fully guaranteed by the contractor.

Prostruct 526 is cement based waterproofing product that can hold back moisture and small amounts of water from the inside of a structure. The product is either applied by block brush or by 3mm trowel application.

It is important to note:

> This solution is not recommended unless there is no way of waterproofing the outside of the basement walls

> A cement based waterproofing product will crack if the there is movement in the structure.
> This may cause the waterproofing system to fail.

Step one - surface preparation

Remove all excess water by means of water pump
Remove by mechanical means any previous waterproofing product
Important
The bare cement needs to be exposed
Use a dust mask
If you use a grinding machine, check the inside of the house after one hour of grinding - fine dust particles may be sucked out of the basement into the main house area and settle there. This will cause a huge mess.

Step two - plugging

Identify obvious ingress areas being small springs of water
Use a core drilling machine ( Hire from local hire company ) and drill a 40mm hole into the concrete until soft substrate is reached
Plug the hole using Vandex plug - The instructions are very easy to follow and should be followed exactly
.

Step three - Prostruct 526 Application

Depending on how serious the problem is, decide whether you will block brush the product ( usually two coats will do it ) or trowel the product.

Our client had most of the water coming from the floor and some heavy moisture coming from the walls

Tip: The product sets VERY quickly…within 30min an entire kit will set harder than concrete so only mix enough that can be used in one application.

Follow the instructions to mix on the product

Start on the walls first
Use a block brush to apply a layer in vertical stripes.

Move to the floor area next - We used a trowel to apply a 3mm layer of the product to the floor.
Tip:
Smooth off the edges of the trowel work using a wet trowel. This will make applying the next layer of product to a smooth edge and will be better for bonding.

Apply a second coat to the wall area

The finish of the block brush is quite rough and if painted over will have an unusual texture.

Tip: A smooth finish can be achieved by applying a layer of Crete-stone over the 526. A plasterer may have difficulty plastering the walls coated in 526 with normal cement. This is because cement mortar draws moisture from the walls as part of the chemical process it uses to cure. Since the 526 now blocks the moisture in the walls, the cement has a hard time 'sticking' to the wall during application. The problem is overcome using Crete-stone.

 

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